Why ‘Zaephay’ you might ask. That’s a good question….and here’s the answer.
The word kite is spelt drage in Norwegian. The Norwegian word drage also means dragon so I googled the Internet for dragon names and I came across the Dragon Name Generator. After some experimenting, the generator returned the name Zaephay and I thought it sounded cool!
That it also reminds me of the word zephyr is not bad either being a light wind kite.
Anyway…. The panels that I cut out in October last year are now sewn together and hemmed. The LE sleeve is coming along and all the framing is ready.
The kite is hopefully going to be a light wind kite, so the framing is pretty light too. I’m using a SkyShark P90 for the middle LE rod and tapered SkyShark 2PT on each side. The down spreaders are also Skyshark P90.
And yes…. The bag is ready too!
2 Responses
Fun! If you would decide to share any further thoughts you had when starting out with the project and any design thought you would have a listener here.
> I’m using a SkyShark P90 for the middle LE rod and tapered SkyShark 2PT on each side. The down spreaders are also Skyshark P90.
Sounds like a quad build (though it doesn’t really say it directly anywhere in the text).
It is not the case that I have tested many types of tubes in my quads – for my B-series Revs it has only been 2-4 layer rev spars and the abovementioned Skyshark spars. I also use the above spars, but have only tested/evaluated the tapered ones as downspars not in the LE as you suggest. Hopefully the removal of some mass close to the wing tips (by using the tapered spars) won’t make completing the axel revolution more/too difficult (perhaps it would force a second axel input and thus become educational?).
The Skyshark frame combo I have tested (P90 LE + 2PT downspars) is however the to go low wind frame for me – the desirable LE flex is there even in zero wind! It is a bit like “importing” medium wind piloting into low wind without requiring immense pulling on all four lines to cause the flex. In case the low wind picks up somewhat and I fit the 2 layer Rev spars I most often let the light 2PT downspars remain.
The very light 2PT downspars I use could possibly have a negative impact on the gliding properties. The kite becomes LE heavy and is prone to dive steeply I think. I typically fly to the top of the wind window and then the kite dives steeply (drops) to complete the catch – It is not really gliding very well towards me (but part of this could be the pilot input I guess).
Recently I made a test by throwing my Rev std (full sail) without lines attached (the bridle still remaining though) with a P90 LE time after time in quite light wind. First with the 2PT downspars normally, then putting the 2PT downspars ”backwards” (with the thick side to the TE side) and after that test going to 2-layer and then 3-layer downspars. I just don’t know from this test. I mean I got slightly longer throws with time, but this could just have been a (temporary?) improvement in throwing technique. I happy to hear any impressions of the effect of the position of the centre of gravity in the LE to TE (chord line) wise direction on catches and throws.
Will your build be a 1.5 compatible frame or make more use of the original spar lengths (i.e. as shipped when bought)? How much would the bridle allow the LE to flex? Any preventive wear tape patches or bridle protection. In case this is a low wind vanilla (whatever that would be) quad build without any “special” details it would be fine that too – things could always be learned from the building process. A plain quad would also be a suitable project for me to make my kite building “take off”.
>Sounds like a quad build (though it doesn’t really say it directly anywhere in the text).
Didn’t I mention that? …but, yea, it’s a quad.
>Will your build be a 1.5 compatible frame or make more use of the original spar lengths (i.e. as shipped when bought)?
I’m basing the sail on a 1.5 but narrowing the panels down to two pieces only; two wing halves. …and I don’t plan to cut any of the rods, but using the standard length.
>How much would the bridle allow the LE to flex?
I don’t quite know yet, but I’ll make a bridle that will be very adjustable (many knots) at the LE Center. This way I can experiment with different lengths allowing more or less LE flex.
>Any preventive wear tape patches or bridle protection.
Nahhh…. Nothing special other than completely cover the upper LE with Dacron at the down spreader connections making it less …snag’able